Hank Swissleaks

Hank Swiss Watches: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#5: In-Depth Review

In-Depth Review of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#5

Key Highlights

Here’s a quick look at what makes the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#5 so special: Marking the end of the innovative RD series, this watch celebrates the brand’s 150th anniversary. If you’re looking for a hands-on review of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#5, you can find detailed coverage on reputable watch enthusiast websites such as Hodinkee and Revolution Watch, which offer in-depth articles and first impressions of this remarkable timepiece.

  • Marking the end of the innovative RD series, this watch celebrates the brand’s 150th anniversary.
  • It’s the first Royal Oak model to ever feature both a flying tourbillon and a flyback chronograph.
  • The timepiece is powered by the revolutionary new Calibre 8100, a marvel of engineering.
  • Despite its complexity, it maintains the iconic extra-thin “Jumbo” case dimensions.
  • The chronograph RD function features ultra-sensitive push-pieces inspired by smartphone technology.

Introduction

On its 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has unveiled a true masterpiece: the Royal Oak RD#5. This exceptional timepiece marks the grand finale of the brand’s groundbreaking Research & Development (RD) series. It beautifully merges the iconic Royal Oak design with cutting-edge technical sophistication. For collectors and watch lovers, the RD#5 represents a new era in chronograph innovation and ergonomic design, making it one of the most exciting releases in recent memory. Are you ready to see what makes it tick?

Unveiling the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#5

The arrival of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#5 has sent ripples of excitement through the watch world. As the final chapter of the celebrated RD series, this watch is the culmination of years of dedicated research and a testament to the brand’s relentless pursuit of innovation. It stands as a new benchmark in the history of complications.

What truly sets the RD#5 apart is its unprecedented combination of features. It is the very first Royal Oak to house both a flying tourbillon and a flyback chronograph within the slim profile of the iconic “Jumbo” case. This achievement redefines what’s possible in an extra-thin timepiece.

Background and Evolution of the Royal Oak Series

The Royal Oak story began in 1972 with a design that broke all the rules. Created by the legendary Gérald Genta, its 39mm steel case was considered massive for its time, earning it the affectionate nickname “Jumbo.” This iconic design quickly became a symbol of audacious style and perfect ergonomics.

Since 2015, Audemars Piguet has used its RD series as a platform to tackle some of watchmaking’s most persistent challenges. Under the guidance of minds like Giulio Papi, the Manufacture in Le Locle has introduced structural solutions for everything from acoustic performance in minute repeaters to ultra-thin perpetual calendars.

The RD#5 continues this tradition of evolution by bringing remarkable new innovations to the Royal Oak collection. For the first time, the “Jumbo” silhouette is equipped with the dual complication of a selfwinding flyback chronograph and a flying tourbillon, a feat of engineering that respects the original’s beloved proportions while pushing mechanical boundaries.

Launch Story of the RD#5 Model

The launch of the RD#5 is perfectly timed to coincide with the brand’s 150th anniversary, serving as a powerful statement of its heritage and future. This model is not just another watch; it is the grand conclusion to the highly influential RD series, which has consistently showcased Audemars Piguet’s most forward-thinking developments.

This exceptional timepiece is the result of five intensive years of development. The brand’s teams reimagined the chronograph from the ground up, creating an all-new calibre to power the watch. This marks the first time a flyback chronograph and a flying tourbillon have ever been combined within the Royal Oak “Jumbo” framework.

To answer a question on many collectors’ minds: yes, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#5 is a limited edition. Only 150 pieces will be produced, making it an incredibly rare and exclusive creation that celebrates a major milestone for the brand. The caseback is engraved with “1 of 150 pieces” and the “150 Years” logo, underscoring its rarity.

Unique Design Features of the RD#5

The Royal Oak RD#5 masterfully retains the iconic design that has made the collection legendary. At first glance, it is unmistakably a “Jumbo,” complete with its signature octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet. The dial is adorned with the classic Petite Tapisserie pattern, which adds depth and texture to the watch’s face.

However, the beauty of the RD#5 lies in the details. Every element, from the case construction to the finishing, has been meticulously crafted to accommodate its complex inner workings without sacrificing its slim profile. Let’s explore the aesthetic and structural choices that make this timepiece so unique.

The Iconic “Jumbo” Aesthetic

The “Jumbo” nickname originates from the original 1972 Royal Oak, whose 39mm case was seen as oversized at the time. Today, these proportions are considered perfect. The Royal Oak RD#5 honors this legacy by maintaining the classic 39mm diameter and an incredible 8.1mm thickness, ensuring it sits comfortably on your wrist.

The dial is presented in the famous “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” shade, a deep and captivating blue. This is complemented by the intricate Petite Tapisserie pattern, rhodium-toned gold hour markers, and 18-carat white gold luminescent hands that ensure readability in any light. The design is completed by the seamlessly integrated bracelet, a hallmark of the Royal Oak.

What makes its 8.1mm thickness so remarkable? The standard Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202ST, a much simpler watch with only a date function, shares the exact same thickness. The fact that Audemars Piguet’s engineers managed to fit a flyback chronograph and a flying tourbillon into the Royal Oak RD#5 without adding any height is a true engineering breakthrough.

Case Construction and Finishing Details

The case construction of the RD#5 is a sophisticated blend of advanced materials chosen for lightness and durability. The main titanium case and bracelet keep the watch light and comfortable, while more precious and resilient materials are used for key external components.

The bezel, chronograph push-pieces, and crown function-selector are crafted from Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG). This palladium-based alloy is highly resistant to wear and can be polished to a brilliant mirror finish. This contrasts beautifully with the titanium case and bracelet links, which feature an alternation of satin brushing and polished bevels, creating a stunning play of light. The caseback itself is finished with a circular satin pattern.

The material and finishing choices are a core part of the watch’s appeal:

  • Titanium Case: Provides a lightweight yet strong foundation for the timepiece.
  • BMG Components: The bezel and pushers are made from highly durable and reflective Bulk Metallic Glass.
  • Mixed Finishing: A combination of satin brushing and mirror polishing creates visual depth and contrast.
  • White Gold Hands: The 18-carat white gold hands add a touch of luxury and enhance legibility.

Innovations in Movement and Engineering

At the heart of the Royal Oak RD#5 lies a major technical innovation: the all-new Calibre 8100. This movement is the result of five years of dedicated work by Audemars Piguet’s engineers, who completely rethought how a chronograph should function to serve both ergonomics and design.

This new calibre introduces a more efficient and user-friendly energy management system. The goal was to create a chronograph that feels intuitive and smooth to operate, a departure from the stiff mechanisms of many modern watches. Let’s examine the breakthroughs that make this movement so special.

Introduction to Calibre 8100

The Calibre 8100 is the brand-new engine driving the RD#5. Born from Audemars Piguet’s research and development department, this new calibre represents a leap forward in technical sophistication. It was engineered to deliver high performance while fitting seamlessly within the “Jumbo’s” extra-thin case.

This selfwinding movement boasts a robust 72-hour power reserve, making it perfectly suited for a modern lifestyle. Its architecture is designed for optimal legibility, with generously sized and symmetrical chronograph counters placed at 3 and 9 o’clock. This thoughtful layout ensures the dial remains balanced and easy to read.

One of the key innovations of the Calibre 8100 is its peripheral rotor, crafted from platinum. This design choice is crucial for reducing the movement’s thickness, as the oscillating weight rotates around the edge rather than sitting on top. As a bonus, it provides an unobstructed, breathtaking view of the movement’s exquisite hand-finishing and sharp inward angles.

Extra-Thin Chronograph Breakthrough

The most significant technical innovation within this extra-thin flyback chronograph is its completely redesigned reset mechanism. For over a century, chronographs have relied on a hammer striking a heart-shaped cam to reset the hands. Calibre 8100 replaces this with a patented rack-and-pinion mechanism that is more efficient and precise.

This new system stores energy when the chronograph rd is activated, much like a stretched elastic band. When you press the reset button, this stored energy is released, snapping the hands back to zero in less than 0.15 seconds. This eliminates the shudder sometimes seen in traditional chronographs and creates an instant jump for the minute counter, a feature highly prized by collectors.

This focus on ergonomics also led to a massive improvement in the feel of the push-pieces, making them as effortless as a smartphone button.

FeatureTraditional ChronographAudemars Piguet RD#5
Push Distance1 mm or more0.3 mm
Force Required~1.5 kilograms of force~300 grams of force

The Flying Tourbillon—Significance and Benefits

A flying tourbillon is a mesmerizing complication. Unlike a traditional tourbillon supported by a bridge on both sides, it is cantilevered, meaning it’s secured only from below. This creates the magical illusion that the tourbillon cage is floating freely, offering an unobstructed view of its intricate dance. It is a true spectacle of watchmaking artistry and a significant technical innovation.

The significance of the flying tourbillon in the RD#5 is twofold. First, it’s a technical feat to incorporate this complication into such a thin movement. It builds upon the ultra-thin flying tourbillon developed for the RD#3. Second, and more importantly, this is the very first time a Royal Oak “Jumbo” has ever combined a flying tourbillon with a flyback chronograph. This unprecedented pairing of complications within the iconic, slim case is what makes the RD#5 a landmark achievement for Audemars Piguet.

Technical Aspects of the Flying Tourbillon

The technical sophistication of the flying tourbillon in the RD#5 has its roots in the RD#3 model from 2022. For that watch, Audemars Piguet’s engineers completely redesigned the selfwinding flying tourbillon to reduce its thickness while maintaining its visual impact and performance.

To achieve this, the team reconfigured the arrangement of components and developed a new escapement. This innovative design drives the titanium tourbillon cage from its periphery rather than from its center. This seemingly small change has a huge impact on the mechanism.

Driving the cage peripherally enhances the distribution of energy, which in turn allows the tourbillon to be lighter and thinner without sacrificing reliability. This new escapement works in harmony with an oscillator that can tolerate higher amplitudes, improving energy management and overall precision. This is one of the core complications that makes the RD#5 so remarkable.

How the Tourbillon Enhances Performance

The primary purpose of a tourbillon in high watchmaking has always been to enhance precision. By constantly rotating the escapement and balance wheel, it averages out and compensates for the positional errors caused by gravity, leading to more stable timekeeping.

The flying tourbillon in the RD#5 takes this a step further. Its innovative new escapement and high-amplitude oscillator not only improve precision but also boost reliability and energy management. This system reduces the “backlash” effect, ensuring a more consistent flow of energy to the regulator for better performance.

This quest for performance is also seen in the chronograph’s clutch system. The calibre features an innovative vertical clutch that combines traditional and friction clutches. This design allows the clutch wheel to engage vertically, which reduces unnecessary rotations and prevents the chronograph hand from jumping when started. Together, these features ensure the watch performs with exceptional smoothness and accuracy.

Material Choices in the Royal Oak RD#5

The material selection for the Royal Oak RD#5 is a deliberate fusion of tradition and cutting-edge technology. The watch combines the lightness of titanium with the resilience of BMG, or Bulk Metallic Glass. These choices are complemented by sapphire crystal, platinum for the rotor, and white gold for the hands.

This blend of materials isn’t just for show. Each was chosen to serve a specific purpose, contributing to the watch’s overall lightness, durability, and stunning appearance. This careful selection ensures the timepiece is both beautiful and robust enough for daily wear.

Premium Metals and Sapphire Crystal Usage

The use of premium metals is central to the RD#5’s construction. The case and integrated bracelet are crafted from titanium, a material prized for its high strength-to-weight ratio. This choice ensures the watch feels incredibly light and comfortable on your wrist despite its mechanical complexity.

Inside, the movement features a peripheral oscillating weight made of platinum. Because platinum is very dense, it allows the rotor to be thin yet heavy enough to effectively wind the mainspring, contributing to the movement’s slim profile without sacrificing winding efficiency.

To maintain the watch’s 8.1mm thickness, Audemars Piguet opted for “glass box” sapphire crystals on both the dial side and the caseback. These crystals are flat on the exterior but are hollowed out on the inside. This clever design creates precious extra space for the hands and the movement’s rotor to move freely, a crucial detail in such a compact timepiece.

Advantages of Advanced Material Selection

One of the most interesting advanced material choices is BMG, or Bulk Metallic Glass. Audemars Piguet’s proprietary BMG is a palladium-based alloy that, when cooled rapidly, develops an amorphous structure similar to glass. This gives it exceptional strength and a unique reflective quality.

This advanced material is used for the bezel, push-pieces, and crown, components that are often subject to knocks and wear. BMG provides outstanding resistance to scratches and corrosion while offering a brilliant mirror polish that contrasts with the satin-brushed titanium. This combination enhances both the watch’s durability and its visual appeal.

The careful selection of materials offers several key benefits:

  • Durability: BMG provides exceptional resistance to wear, ensuring the watch maintains its brilliant finish.
  • Lightness: The titanium case and bracelet make the complex watch surprisingly light and comfortable for daily wear.
  • Aesthetics: The play between the mirror-polished BMG and brushed titanium creates a dynamic and captivating look.
  • Ease of Use: The robust materials ensure the watch can handle modern lifestyles, while the light push-pieces require only a few grams of force to operate.

Collector Appeal and Market Excitement

The launch of the Royal Oak RD#5 has created a wave of market excitement across the watch world. For any serious collector, this timepiece represents a “grail” watch, combining technical prowess, historical significance, and the iconic Royal Oak design. It is a statement piece that showcases the pinnacle of Audemars Piguet’s capabilities.

Much of this excitement is driven by the watch’s extreme rarity and exclusivity. As the final model in the revolutionary RD series and a limited edition release, it is instantly one of the most desirable watches on the market. This combination of innovation and scarcity is a powerful formula for collector appeal.

Limited Edition Status and Exclusivity

Yes, the Royal Oak RD#5 is a strictly limited edition. Audemars Piguet has confirmed that only 150 pieces will be produced worldwide. This scarcity immediately elevates its status and guarantees its exclusivity for the lucky few who can acquire one.

This exclusivity is amplified by its role as the final model in the groundbreaking RD series. The series has been a showcase for the brand’s most advanced research, and the RD#5 is the grand finale. The “1 of 150 pieces” and “150 Years” engravings on the caseback serve as constant reminders of the watch’s rarity and historical context.

After five years of development, this timepiece embodies a level of innovation that watchmaking experts have praised. Its limited production ensures that it will remain a highly sought-after model for decades to come, representing a significant moment in Audemars Piguet’s history.

Reactions from Watch Enthusiasts and Experts

Reactions from watch enthusiasts and experts have been overwhelmingly positive, with many hailing the RD#5 as a masterpiece. The market excitement stems from its successful integration of two major complications into the beloved “Jumbo” case without altering its slim proportions—a feat many thought was impossible.

A major point of discussion has been the user experience. Watchmaking experts have been particularly impressed by the ergonomic innovations, especially the chronograph push-pieces. Their smartphone-like sensitivity is seen as a genuine leap forward in making mechanical complications more intuitive and comfortable to use for the collector.

The excitement surrounding the RD#5 in the Royal Oak collection can be summarized by a few key points:

  • Its unprecedented combination of a flying tourbillon and flyback chronograph.
  • The groundbreaking Calibre 8100 with its instant-reset mechanism.
  • The revolutionary comfort and ease of use provided by the light-touch push-pieces.
  • Its status as the final, most complex, and rarest model in the celebrated RD series.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#5 exemplifies a remarkable blend of tradition and innovation, making it a standout in the prestigious Royal Oak series. With its iconic design, cutting-edge movement technology, and exclusive materials, this timepiece is not just a watch but a statement of luxury and craftsmanship. Collectors and enthusiasts alike are captivated by its unique features and limited edition status, ensuring its position as a coveted asset in the world of haute horlogerie. As you consider adding this exceptional model to your collection, remember that it offers more than just precise timekeeping; it embodies a rich heritage and an uncompromising commitment to quality. Don’t miss out—schedule your free consultation today to explore how the Royal Oak RD#5 can elevate your watch collection.

Frequently Asked Questions

What makes the Royal Oak RD#5 stand out in the collection?

The Royal Oak RD#5 stands out by being the first model to combine a flying tourbillon and a flyback chronograph within the extra-thin iconic design of the “Jumbo.” Its immense technical sophistication, housed in a famously slim case, sets a new standard for complications within the Royal Oak family.

Is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#5 a limited edition release?

Yes, the Audemars Piguet RD#5 is a very exclusive limited edition. To mark the company’s 150th anniversary, only 150 pieces were made. This extreme rarity makes it one of the most sought-after models in modern watchmaking, ensuring its exclusivity and desirability among collectors for years to come.

How does the selfwinding chronograph work in this model?

The selfwinding chronograph in the new calibre features a patented reset mechanism that does away with the traditional hammer. It stores and releases energy to instantly reset the chronograph seconds wheel. This innovative system provides a smoother, more precise function with an incredibly light touch on the push-pieces.

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch/royal-oak-jumbo-extra-thin-selfwinding-flying-tourbillon-chronograph-rd5.html

https://www.audemarspiguet.com

https://www.instagram.com/sjxwatches

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/26670ST.OO.1240ST.02.html

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/home.html

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-audemars-piguet-rd5

https://www.watchonista.com/audemars-piguet/watches/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-jumbo-extra-thin-selfwinding-flying-tourbillon-chronograph-rd5-150th


Comments

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *